Doug Rice

Members
  • Content Count

    277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Doug Rice

  1. MikeC, I'm no expert at making, and even less so at repairs, but in my experience with countersinks with multiple cutting edges, I think your peg reamer is the problem. With more than one cutting edge, it has tendency to chatter, resulting in the hexagonal holes you show. I would strongly recommend buying a decent one, such as T410 from Int'l Violin. It costs $34. My 2 cents. Doug
  2. Ernie, I just kept changing fields with Melving as author. Finally got it, along with three pages of other stuff. I have looked at his violin many times, so I recognized the thread when I found it. Whew!
  3. Ernie, here you go: Melving's fiddle It is amazing! This search engine is FUBAR.
  4. Michael, That is gorgeous!
  5. I have been really frustrated trying to do searches. Half the time it just gives me all of the recent posts, whether they contained the search term or not. Sometimes emptying the cache helps, or toggling the ascending/descending button. Rarely can I actually find what I am looking for. The new search engine is seriously messed up.
  6. It's already carved. It may have been that the glue was too thick, and I didn't notice it until it got thinned. Probably make a new top, but thought I could try to learn something new with what I have. Thanks guys, Doug
  7. Hi All, I am making a new violin. When I hold the top against a strong light, I can see a very faint clear stripe at the center seam. The seam is not open, but I am worried about it. It may have happened when I took the top off (another story.) I tried heating it up with a heat gun, rubbing in some hot glue, and using those curved clamps that arch across the bouts. I thought it was tight when I clamped it, but now it looks like it did before. I am thinking of trying either: 1. The heat gun again (or an alcohol lamp) and waiting until I see the glue bubble slightly, then using the arch
  8. Barry - it's very nice. I like the single line of purfling. The spruce is very interesting. Would you mind sharing how you did it? Also, just out of curiosity, what are the two sizes you make? Doug
  9. Doug Rice

    Rotary Tools

    Here is a copy of my notes from Michael: ***NOTE that he grinds off the bottom teeth if present*** Micheal Darnton Rotary File 1"x1" Rotary file (the coarsest you can find--and make sure it's a good one, which will cost about $20, not a $5 one)in the drill press, set 4mm over a fresh table topper of plywood, used at the highest speed. If you get one with teeth on the bottom (flat end) grind them off using a bench grinder and a power drill to spin the file (make the end a bit hollow and you'll be even happier.) Wrap all but the last 4mm with masking tape so you don't get chewed on. If th
  10. Doug Rice

    Rotary Tools

    Ed, McMaster-Carr is a good source for rotary files, etc. I believe that is where Michael got his, since it is also in Chicago. Doug
  11. Oded, I want to try your madder/alcohol tincture, but I don't really like using shellac as my ground (because it is so darned hard to strip off if I don't like it.) Could it be mixed with oil varnish, perhaps in an intermediary solvent like xylene? Or perhaps spirit varnish could be used as rgound? Thanks. Doug p.s. Bruce, I always enjoy seeing your photographs. I have learned a lot from them.
  12. Melvin, Good for you. Beware the attraction of wood containing hide glue (speaking from experience.) Doug
  13. Probably a dumb question, but are we sure that UV tanning isn't doing the same thing (although I have read a couple of scientific papers that said the changes in wood after UV treatment were only about 0.2mm deep)? Or some other reaction that is detrimental?
  14. VLR, An old file is an excellent steel to use for blades. It's also good in that no one will have ruined the temper by grinding it until it's blue.
  15. Everyone, This thread is wonderful. Thank you all. I am currently using varnish with pumice. It seems OK, but nothing special. I tried a thin coat of polymerized tung oil - the violin seemed fine, but I moved on. Oded's madder tincture and shellac sounds promising. I will give it a try. I wish I had more to contribute. Doug
  16. David and Strado and others, I have been placing a dish of water (about 6 inches across) in the UV box, but am still concerned. I was thinking about using a dish with water containing a large sponge. Do you have a suggestion for a good way to keep the humidity up? Thanks. Doug
  17. Lovely, Manfio - as usual. I too like the color and finish of the last couple. They seem more "comfortable" somehow. Doug
  18. That's terrific Barry. I love fiddle music. There's more than one kind of music you know:)
  19. Congratulations Josh! I LOVE babies. Maybe you can post a photo of his long arches
  20. Bernhard, Thank you. They are really cool. I like the scribed grip on picture 6. Doug Marples, It looks lovely! Brad, You have your hands full. I'll never to be brave enough to work on bows. OK, here's mine: Two del Gesu "Kreslers" being varnished: And a Testore wannabe on the bench (well, actually the garage floor):
  21. Bernhard, What is a clip in frog? Obviously this is a new term to me. How do you adjust the hair tension? Your bows look very nice! Thanks Doug
  22. OK, I put my thinking underwear on and made some measurements from the poster. In the diagram, I plotted the positions of the thinnest regions on the belly and the back at the widest point of the lower bouts. The thinnest points fall interior to the channel, about 20mm from the edges. It would be nice to have more than one instrument to go by, but with the consistency of the locations of the thinnest regions, it looks to me like the thinning is intentional. I think I will go for it. Comments welcome! Thanks. Doug