Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Doug Rice

Members
  • Posts

    277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Indianapolis

Recent Profile Visitors

3884 profile views

Doug Rice's Achievements

Senior Member

Senior Member (4/5)

  1. MikeC, I'm no expert at making, and even less so at repairs, but in my experience with countersinks with multiple cutting edges, I think your peg reamer is the problem. With more than one cutting edge, it has tendency to chatter, resulting in the hexagonal holes you show. I would strongly recommend buying a decent one, such as T410 from Int'l Violin. It costs $34. My 2 cents. Doug
  2. Ernie, I just kept changing fields with Melving as author. Finally got it, along with three pages of other stuff. I have looked at his violin many times, so I recognized the thread when I found it. Whew!
  3. Ernie, here you go: Melving's fiddle It is amazing! This search engine is FUBAR.
  4. Michael, That is gorgeous!
  5. I have been really frustrated trying to do searches. Half the time it just gives me all of the recent posts, whether they contained the search term or not. Sometimes emptying the cache helps, or toggling the ascending/descending button. Rarely can I actually find what I am looking for. The new search engine is seriously messed up.
  6. It's already carved. It may have been that the glue was too thick, and I didn't notice it until it got thinned. Probably make a new top, but thought I could try to learn something new with what I have. Thanks guys, Doug
  7. Hi All, I am making a new violin. When I hold the top against a strong light, I can see a very faint clear stripe at the center seam. The seam is not open, but I am worried about it. It may have happened when I took the top off (another story.) I tried heating it up with a heat gun, rubbing in some hot glue, and using those curved clamps that arch across the bouts. I thought it was tight when I clamped it, but now it looks like it did before. I am thinking of trying either: 1. The heat gun again (or an alcohol lamp) and waiting until I see the glue bubble slightly, then using the arch clamps. 2. Heat plus thin glue or *very* hot water, plus clamping. 3. Something from one of you people who know a heck of a lot more than I do. 4. Last resort: make a new top or stop worrying about it. Thanks for you help Doug
  8. Barry - it's very nice. I like the single line of purfling. The spruce is very interesting. Would you mind sharing how you did it? Also, just out of curiosity, what are the two sizes you make? Doug
  9. Doug Rice

    Rotary Tools

    Here is a copy of my notes from Michael: ***NOTE that he grinds off the bottom teeth if present*** Micheal Darnton Rotary File 1"x1" Rotary file (the coarsest you can find--and make sure it's a good one, which will cost about $20, not a $5 one)in the drill press, set 4mm over a fresh table topper of plywood, used at the highest speed. If you get one with teeth on the bottom (flat end) grind them off using a bench grinder and a power drill to spin the file (make the end a bit hollow and you'll be even happier.) Wrap all but the last 4mm with masking tape so you don't get chewed on. If the top wood is soft you can rip off the edge or corners when you are climbing grainlines--do these areas VERY carefully in the wrong direction. I rough carve to about 6mm and then take the edges down 1mm at a time to final thickness. Watch your fingers--don't put them near the edge on the sucking-in side, and work pushing against the file, not resisting the draw into the work. It does a beautiful job and can be quite frightening the first few times. Don't call ME if it walks over your hand and rips it to shreds! But I've never got hurt. I once talked to someone who used a Wagner Safety-Planer, but that cuts TOO well--let the wood lift up and it will cut right through it. The file with plain end won't, since there are no teeth on the bottom. If you want to be ****Traditional**** use your single-bladed purfling cutter to cut in from the side of the plate at the right height all around. It will cut in far enough to do a great job, and then you just gouge down to the cut and you have a finished edge. I think I (re-)invented this idea after noticing that most classical period violins have the purfling in from the edge almost exactly the same distance as the edge thickness on any particular violin. What could be easier than to use the tool set the same for both jobs? You read it here first :-)
  10. Doug Rice

    Rotary Tools

    Ed, McMaster-Carr is a good source for rotary files, etc. I believe that is where Michael got his, since it is also in Chicago. Doug
  11. Oded, I want to try your madder/alcohol tincture, but I don't really like using shellac as my ground (because it is so darned hard to strip off if I don't like it.) Could it be mixed with oil varnish, perhaps in an intermediary solvent like xylene? Or perhaps spirit varnish could be used as rgound? Thanks. Doug p.s. Bruce, I always enjoy seeing your photographs. I have learned a lot from them.
  12. Melvin, Good for you. Beware the attraction of wood containing hide glue (speaking from experience.) Doug
×
×
  • Create New...