Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Doublestop 1231

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Doublestop 1231's Achievements

New Member

New Member (1/5)

  1. Late 20's is not even close to being old! I started playing again when I was 46 after almost 3 decades. Most of my teacher's students are young and in high school. But she also has a number of adult students and I am not even the oldest one. And she was a Juliard grad and a classmate of Itzhak Perlman. She is wonderful in terms of letting me go at my own pace and I am sure she does not teach me the same way she teaches her "kids". Anyway, the teachers who refuse to take you because "you are too old" are just too snotty and not worth having. Keep looking and I am sure you will find a teacher as good as mine.
  2. Do you mind sharing the 5 or 6 check points with us? And how do you look under the wrap without destroying it in the process? : Sartory bows are generally stamped on the handle (upside down in the typical French way) and also under the wrap. The stamp should be 20.5 mm long. I did, however, recently sell a great one with the stamp not "upside down" which is very unusual. I have also seen them made for other shops (generally earlier bows) and I have seen them with no stamp at all. In any event, Sartory's work is distinctive and there are at least 5 or 6 checkpoints that should be present in all his work. Therefore it should be relatively straightforward to identify your unstamped bow. My first suggestion is to check under the wrap for a stamp. : : : : : I have a gold-mounted bow which I bought as a Sartory : : many years ago (before they become so outrageously : : expensive) which I have loved for all these : : years. Absolutely fantastic stick. Issue here is that it is not stamped and I've always wondered if it was truly authentic. Have you seen many Sartory's that : : do not have a stamp? And if so, how/why might : : this have occurred and are such bows : : particularly difficult to authenticate? : : Thanks in advance, : : Jeff : : : : : Personally, I prefer the earliest Sartory bows. I find that they generally have the densest, most dark beautiful wood and are the most slender and elegant. Some of his earliest works have plain pearl eyes and divided buttons and occasionally were made for (and stamped by) shops of the period. Sartory's later work became, in my opinion, rather heavy and clunky with fat sticks. Probably his assistants made a lot of the later bows because they are also a bit less refined. In fact, though, I do not believe that the market differentiates the values of the various periods of Sartory's work. Probably condition and weight are the main determining factors. : : : : : : : Do any one know which period sartory bows are most expensive?
  3. ......www.thestrad.com : I am looking for a reasonablely priced USED Strad magzines. I would like them to be in somewhat of a good condition. If interested, PLEASE e-mail me at Xtreme0014@aol.com Thanks!
  4. The Yamaha SV plays just like a regular violin. The only difference is that you have to wear an ear phone to hear the full sound (it can also simulate playing in a large hall). I have one and it is great for practice. The sound is very pure and it almost forces you to have good intonation. There are certain things you have to get used to. It feels a little heavier than a regulat violin and the neck/finger board feels a little wider. Also, because the bout is hollow, it feels a little funny at first when playing the higher positions. It uses regular strings and you can play with a regular bow. For some reason, the strings do not feel as tight as on a regular violin; but I think that actually helps you to soften your left hand. In all, it is a worthwhile investment. : Can any one tell me if Yamaha's "Silent Violin" feels like an acoustic violin. Is is the same weight; does it use standard strings; does the fingerboard feel the same in various positions; can I use my favorite bow? I am considering buying one in order to be able to practice in my very musically unsupportive household. I should just leave, but the violin is just one of my loves. Thanks for any help.
  5. By "custom made" do you mean you want to commission a maker to make a violin to your specifications? If you are, you can plan on spending $10K and up. Depending on where you live, there are a number of very fine makers who will do that. Check out David Foland in Minnesota, Tetsuo Matsuda in Illinois, Greg Elf or Joe Curtin in Michigan, Francis Kuttner in California, David Gussett in Oregon. : Does anyone know of anyone who custom makes violins that are far superior to the Scott Cao 800 model that is around the $3000 price range? : Jon
  6. : Okey dokey. I'm back on here after a nice long vacation of practicing my violin and (tadaa!) cello for about 2hrs. every day. Yes, my mom finally gave in and let me get a cello, and I'm thrilled. I play 1st violin in school for two pieces and cello for one. Anyway, one piece (concert piece for strings) has you put on a mute, and, this is kind of a dumb question, but what string do I put the mute on? The mute goes on the bridge. Imagine clamping down on the bridge with the prongs of the mute. Any (nonsexist)[that means you, adean] comments would be appriceated. Thanx, love ya bunches, : Katie
×
×
  • Create New...