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Everything posted by Erica

  1. I recently obtained a violin to learn on, and I already play several other instruments. I am trying to teach myself, and am looking for a basic fingering chart of some kind....any help would be much appreciated.
  2. sixpence none the richer is actually a Christian group, so try checking for Kiss Me on Christian music sites....I've found that Christian sites are more likely to have tabs and charts posted for free then secular sites....just a thought. : ok...i'd would really apprecitate it anyone could help me with tabs, chords and lyrics for the following songs!...thanx K : 1)sixpence none the richer - kiss me : 2)b*witched - blame it on the weatherman : 3)kravitz lenny - fly away
  3. : I can't find the thread someone started on this : topic, so here goes: : I don't know if Charles Woods is the best, but : he's probably right up there. : Here's some pix of my violin that he made
  4. Hello all, I'm learning violin, and am trying to decide whether to buy an A=440 tuning fork or invest in an electronic tuner. My preference would be the tuning fork, as I want to develop my ear to judge intervals more accurately. I have been tuning guitars by ear for over twenty-five years (never having used a pitch pipe or tuner), and can judge perfect fourths/major thirds accurately, but find a certain amount of minor adjustment is necessary to get particular chords to play in tune, so will adjust my tuning depending on what key I'm playing in. I don't want to spark off another intonation debate, but I've done a search on intonation and tuning, and there is still a question in my mind which remains unanswered . . . One can tune to perfect fifths by ear when given an A, and I am quite happy to continue doing this, but I gather that the fifths in equal temperament tuning are not perfect (maybe I misunderstood, but this was my impression). How then does one play in equal temperament when one has tuned the violin's open strings to perfect fifths? Would not the open strings then sound slightly out of tune in a scale run? I am not able to judge this on the basis of my own playing, which is still woefully inaccurate after over a quarter of a century of relying on frets for intonation. Perhaps some more experienced players can comment . . .
  5. : It seems as if my rest is exactly what you are looking for...I came up with the idea while working on my vibrato...the violin kept moving around (falling) as I tried to learn vibrato...now it stays right in place while practicing...once set in the position (set by the player)...it can be put on (securely) and removed without changing the setting. On of my tests, of the rest, was being able to bow the violin and finger (with vibrato) the notes overhand with with no support with the left hand at all. It was almost like the method of practicing vibrato with the scroll of the violin resting against the wall... without the wall. I know that doesn't mean anything to most people, unless you are someone trying to learn vibrato. george In that case, I want one :-) Let me know when/how/where they are available (don't forget I'm at the antipodes . . . Seriously, though . . . does this stability you have found depend on you having a certain body build? Have you tried it on tall, skinny, short, chubby, long-necked, short-necked, broad/narrow-shouldered etc people with the same results? I'm long-necked and all skin and bones, and I have wondered if that is why my Kun, while much better than nothing, is still not sufficient for stability. Shimming up my chinrest helped with the stiff neck I was getting after half an hour of playing, but the fiddle still slides down my front if I don't concentrate on keeping it in place with my left hand.
  6. : Good evening Erica: : Thicknesses vary all over the map, depending on wood density, Youngs Modulus and so on.
  7. Hello all, Could anybody tell me what the standard thickness of the top on a 3/4 violin is? I understand that it's thicker at the belly than at the edges, but would like to know by how much.
  8. : Hello, : Prospecting for information: does anyone have any experience playing fiddle with Uilleann (Irish) bagpipes? You might want to try posting this query on the Fiddle-L list (URL below). Good luck . . . http://www-openmap.bbn.com/users/gkeith/fi....html">Fiddle-L list
  9. : .....and the bar a piece of wood carved in place, not glued in after graduation. : I'm glad yours is one of the better ones, : Al
  10. : Hello Erica....I can't tell you much, but here goes: : The Maidstone violins I have seen were made in Markneukirchen, Germany, from about 1900 to 1920. They were imported by a dealer or two in England. I think Murdoch is one of those dealers. I also think the violins had no labels in them when imported and were labeled by the dealer selling them. That makes sense - Maidstone is in Kent, England. I have seen various quality levels, from the lowest...no blocks, no bar...to the top of the line, fully blocked, nice wood and varnish. When you say "no blocks, no bar", do you mean the end blocks that the endpin and neck are attached to, the corner blocks and the bass bar? Could a violin really be constructed without these blocks? Wouldn't it sound awful without a bass bar? Mine has these blocks and bass bar. It also is beautifully flamed with a finegrained top, so it must be one of the better quality ones. : As far as value is concerned, no idea. I would wager that the price you paid for it is reasonable. I paid AU$450 for it with a $150 bow and a hardcase included. I think that would be about US$380 or thereabouts, probably $290 without the bow. Sounds reasonable to me. : Enjoy the violin. Thanks, I am.
  11. : Another thought on the sound of your violin - I checked my catalogs and could find Helicore strings only in 4/4 size. If you tune these on a 3/4 fiddle, the strings will be a bit loose and this will strongly affect the sound. (Shorter string segment, lower tension for the same pitch!) Hmmmm, never thought of that. Makes sense. Hopefully you have more than just a VSO (violin shaped object). Yes :-) I hope so too. On that note, I just received an email from someone in Britain who said he saw a fiddle the same brand as this one of mine ("Maidstone") in a junk shop and recommended it to a student. Apparently after it was fixed up it sounded so good he wished he'd bought it for himself. So there's hope yet . . .
  12. Hello all, Does anyone know of a website which has standard measurements for smaller violins? Peter Prier's has only 4/4 measurements.
  13. Hello all, I have an early twentieth century european 3/4 of 'uncertain parentage' which has a tinny, squawky sound. It is beautiful to look at, with highly flamed back, ribs and neck and a fine-grained top with no cracks. It was cheap to buy and is not a fiddle of great value, so I don't want to spend too much on it. As far as tone goes, tinny is the only adjective I can think of. it is like a small, cheap transistor radio compared with a good stereo. It has new helicores on it, and the bridge is between the notches. The varnish is roughened/mossing in the region of the bridge feet, so the bridge can't sit absolutely perfectly, but the fit is fairly good. It is not boxy or hollow, and the sound stops dead the moment I take the bow off the strings on all fingered notes (no resonance). The top seems rather thick in the middle of the belly (over 5mm thick). Isn't it supposed to be thinner than this? The strings are reasonably balanced (i.e. they all sound bad in more or less the same way :-), and the fiddle is not all that loud, but not quiet either. The soundpost is at present approximately an inch behind the bridge foot, which is far too much. Could this alone account for the tinny tone? I am going to take it in to my local luthier (when she comes back from holiday in a few weeks) for soundpost and bridge adjustment as a matter of course, but in addition to that . . . what procedure is most likely to give it a mellower, sweeter sound i.e. what would offer best value for money? Do some procedures/adjustments work better for some tonal deficiencies/problems, or is it just hit and miss? Is there any way I can predict what is likely to be the most cost-effective improvement before spending the money? On the other hand, could it be just because it's a 3/4? Are they irretrievably more likely to sound tinny than a full-size fiddle? Any ideas appreciated.
  14. I read posts on violin tuning reagrding perfect 5th. I would like to know what would be read on electric tuner for G, D, and E strings if these strings are tuned to the perfect 5th.
  15. : Does anyone know were to find FREE Clarinet Sheet? : Please let me know at: lord_sprite@hotmail.com
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