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nashville violins

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Everything posted by nashville violins

  1. Didn't intend to be mean. Maybe somebody is just trying to get people upset, but I take my craft seriously. 1st rule: do no harm. 2nd rule: don't cause others to do harm.
  2. Yeun, The point that really bothers me, and several of the other people that do this for a living, is that you state everything like you are an expert on the subject when you have NO CLUE what you are talking about! Most people ask questions when they don't understand. They don't attempt something when they know they can't do it properly. They learn from their mistakes. At some point, when enough people tell them to stop doing what they are doing, they do. You seem to be on a mission to continue to destroy violins, and by your actions and advice, are encouraging others to do the same!
  3. That's the trick! You can get close by adjusting it with your reamer in there (carefully). You will need to make fine adjustments as you fit pegs to the holes you have reamed. It's good to have extra pegs around for this. It doesn't take much to be out of adjustment.
  4. The question was "saving cost or waste of time?" The last three posts summarize it pretty good. It's not cheap to get the right tools, and you will probably mess up at least one peg. As long as you don't also mess up your violin, then it is reversible and you can have another go at it. If your goal is to learn how to do this, and you are willing to spend the time and money to learn how to do it right, then waste your time and do it. Those of us that work on instruments for a living can't see ourselves doing anything else. It's a passion. If your goal is to get the work done right for the least amount of money, then have a professional do it. If your goal is just to save money, then don't do anything. If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right. Best of luck with whatever direction you decide to go. Just remember that your number one rule should be "do no harm" and you will be fine.
  5. If the neck has a curve in it, then it probably doesn't have an ebony fingerboard, or the fingerboard has come loose. Ebony doesn't normally curve much over as small of an area as a violin fingerboard. Some fingerboards have way too much curve in them when they are made, but it really shouldn't be all that visible to the naked eye unless something is seriously wrong. Correcting a loose neck or warped fingerboard isn't really something that the average person can do themselves. If it isn't already loose, then it will be pretty much impossible for you to get it loose to fix it without damaging something. Are there any shops that you can take it to? If nothing is loose and it isn't too far off, I would just lower the bridge a little.
  6. Everyone knows that a violin sounds better if it has a label in it. Especially if it is Italian! Of course, the way to make your fiddle sound REALLY good is to put a rattlesnake rattle in it.
  7. "This violin repaired by Yuen ____________ Anytown, USA June 2008" If you don't know the model, when it was made, or who made it, why would you try to add to the confusion by implicating that on the label? You can replace "repaired" with "owned" if that suits you better. If you have more history, you could write that on the label, or just write up a sheet to keep with the instrument in the case: "This violin made in 2005 by Joe Smith of Anytown, USA of wood reclaimed from his old barn said to have been built by former president George Washington in 1865."
  8. I think the blue neck is tape to protect the area that will be finished differently than the rest of the instrument. It come off Barry, nice job again. Is this the one you'll be sending to me? Let us know what you think of the new finish once you are done.
  9. I like the design. Did you use spruce and cedar for the top? Any particular reason for the two different woods? It gives it a nice look that I would like to see repeated on the back. I know this particular one has a beautiful one-piece, but perhaps on your next model? You could even go with a veneer of something like ash or walnut down the center. Maybe even rosewood if you want to compliment the pegs. I'm fond of inovation, and the guitar shape is very nice. I think I would like to see the sound holes a little lower, and also for the notch to line up with placement of the bridge. Do you have any photos from the side? Was this based on something else you have seen? I don't much care for the head. It seems a bit large, and I am concerned that it would be difficult to find a case to fit the instrument. Very nice work. Do you plan to make more?
  10. Try this one: A nice bridge blank that does not need modifying: IMG
  11. You need to get a big bottle of Everclear. Whenever you get the urge to work on a violin, drink as much of the bottle as you can, then a bit more. Wait for hour before you start the violin. If you can still walk, drink much more Everclear and wait again. Make sure not get on violin. Violin will be MUCH better next day than if you touch it.
  12. She says it "appears very old" so maybe you can point out the fact that the "age" was added when the instrument was made. Trade instruments were often artificially aged, and some of that should be easy to point out. There is a big difference between real age, and fake marks under the original varnish.
  13. It may turn out to not be that different despite the look, but this bow is unique enough that anybody you show it to will want to play it. Please post what they have to say.
  14. I keep a copy of this on hand: http://www.afvbm.com/strad.htm I also reasure them that just because it is a copy doesn't mean that it can't be a great instrument.
  15. Very interesting! Must have been difficult to make. It should be challenging to get it back to playing condition, but I am curious to hear how it feels.
  16. Don't forget all the chewed up f-holes because they either didn't have the right tool, or didn't know how to use it. My personal peave is when the customer tells me they don't need a new soundpost because there is already one in there. See it, with the string tied to it?
  17. iburkard, thanks! I got a good chuckle out of that. I homebrew. Our motto is RDWHAHB*. As long as I remember that, I'm ok. relax, don't worry, have a homebrew
  18. Sorry Fjodor, not directed at you. Some people like to ask for advice and then not bother waiting to get it or listening to what others say. Should have learned my lesson last time. Your raised wing can be corrected. It is more likely that the post is too short, but was pulled tight causing it to be too far outside the bridge and too close to the f-hole. A properly fitted post that is in the correct location could fix it right away, or it might settle some if it has been like that for a while. Difficult to diagnose without seeing the instrument and post location. Take your time to get advise here, or visit a good shop to have it fixed.
  19. Soundposts are rarely too long. If it is in there, in the right location, and you don't see any evidence that it is too long, then leave it alone. That said, there is good chance that it doesn't fit properly. Soundposts are rarely perfect for many reasons. I would STRONGLY urge you not to attempt adjusting it yourself.
  20. Beginners should have fine tuners on all of the strings. Some brands are MUCH better than others. Many prefer the tailpieces with the tuners built in. Many reasons for that, just search the archives. If you can tune your violin using ONLY the pegs, then you can consider removing fine tuners and using just one for the E. The main resons for this is that an instrument might sound better without the extra weight on the tailpiece and the shorter afterstop. Will your violin sound better? Maybe, maybe not. I do know without a doubt that most violins sound considerably better when they are played in tune!
  21. One common misconception is that older is better. They made junk back then, too, but most of the German student violins were pretty decent. (Especially when you compare them to the cheap junk that often ends up in the hands of beginners today) Most new violins (or violins that have had extensive work done on them) will have significant changes in tone within a very short time of being played. After that, the changes are much more gradual over a long time. It's amazing to hear how much an instrument can change in the first half hour it is played. With student violins, it is most important to have an instrument that will not turn off a new player, either because it sounds bad, or is difficult to play. A decent setup can usually take care of both of those problems.
  22. It takes a bit of "perfection" to fit them. I don't like the idea of opening up the holes any more than you need to. They do come in several diameters, and I would recommend getting the smallest size shaft that you can use. If your hole is not round, and/or too tight, you run the risk of splitting the pegbox. One-time violin repair doesn't make much sense to me. If your only goal is to save money, then don't do anything. If you really want to learn how to do violin repair, then invest in the tools and the education to do it properly. You should get much better results by letting a professional do this, and the small fee it will cost you to have it done right will be worth it.
  23. quote: Originally posted by: Winston In the case of Zyex, Helicore, or Prelude viola strings, the string gauge is identical for all lengths. For example, a Zyex viola G is always the same diameter (gauge). Only the length changes for a 17" viola or a 14" viola. I find this hard to believe, but didn't have the time to look into it until now. I know there are big differences in fractional violin strings. D'Addario doesn't have a lot of specifics posted on their viola strings for fractional instruments, but I did find this for Prelude. Note that no tensions are posted for light or heavy gauge long scale strings (so I removed those from this chart): Item # Note Description LM 16 & over MM 15 - 16 SM 15 & under XSM 12 playing length: millimeters 380 360 330 305 inches 15 14 1/8 13 12 J911 A Aluminum 16.1 14.9 13.8 12.0 J912 D Aluminum 11.6 11.3 10.6 10.2 J913 G Nickel 10.6 10.4 9.2 11.1 J914 C Nickel 10.8 10.6 9.5 9.5 J910 Set According to this chart, a 12" viola G (model XSM) has a higher tension at 12" than any of the longer strings on their appropriately sized instrument. I think some additional research would be needed to determine if all viola strings by all manufactures were similar. I always try to use shorter scale strings for short scale violas. I think it would be in someone's best interest to find the correct size string for their instrument. A simple test would be to buy a short and a long scale of the same string that you prefer and see if there is a difference or not. Be careful with all the extra wrapping you will have on the long scale. If you cut it down, you can seal up the end with a drop of super glue and allow to dry before inserting into the peg hole. BTW, A great short scale viola string that you don't see much in the States is the Correlli Crystal. If anyone does experiment with different scale viola strings on the same instrument, please post your findings.
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