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Everything posted by Joseph

  1. : I recently got a set of Gold Label Gut strings. : They sounded a little different, especially since I : had been using Dominants before, but I must now say : that I do like them better. I like moderate dark sound, but at the : higher positions on the D the tone is muffled and maybe : too dark. I need a dark tone yet a clear one. Would : Tonica fit that description or would Aricore? Are Eudoxa : or Olive strings like that, too? Volume is important, : too. I need projective strings for solos, etc. : Joey : P.S. Thanks for the replies I got in regards to the : E-loop protector. Your help is much appreciated. Joey, The Airicore strings are (in my opinion) overly dark sounding, but they do have more volume than the gut core strings. Tonicas are a good choice, but may not be dark enough ... If you want a gut core string, I would definitely recommend the Olives which are powerful, clear, very warm, and dark enough .... Oh, and a little expensive! But well worth it! Joseph
  2. : It occurs to me that if your instrument is truly dead at that A, then playing the same note on the D and G strings would also cause a problem. Does it? : You say you have tried the strong and medium gauge strings. You should know that although these may be louder on some instruments, their tendency to damp the overtones on many instruments actually can make them sound duller and and weaker in volume. Therefore, it is possible that you might be helped by using the thinner or weaker strings. : But before you invest in another set, you could try releasing the tension on some of the other strings by tuning them down a tone and see how this affects the sound of your A string (by the way you don't say specifically that all other notes on the A string are good - are they?) : Finally it occurs to me that you might then also tune the A down to a G (i.e., one whole tone lower) and see if it is still dead, of if the first finger position becomes dead. If the true A is dead in this new place, then perhaps you have a wolf tone of some sort - but if you do, it should also occur for the same note played on other strings, but not particularly for higher or lower octaves of that note. To cure a Wolf note, you will need to adjust the string afterlengths somewhat, abd/or put a Wolf eliminator (they sell them for less than $10) at the proper place for your particular Wolf, which you find by trial and error, but it will likely be on the D or G string afterlength. Wolf notes do occur on some pretty good fiddles, it's just that you try to get them to move to a "none note" tone when making the fiddle. An open A is certainly no place to have one - why you can't even tune up. : Andy Andy, Yes, all the other notes on the A string sound fine and balanced with the rest of the register. I will try the experiment by tuning the string lower and see what I get. Joseph
  3. : Hi Joseph, : Describing an acoustic problem in writing is always a bit of a challenge, isn't it! : While I was reading the other posts in this "string" I also began to wonder if the problem had something to do with the contact of the string on the nut. Glad to see Al had jumped in there. : It is unfortunately my experience that a majority of instruments out there have a poorly shaped nut to begin with. If the string does not make contact with the leading edge, it tends to sound "false" or "dead" when the open string is played. Same kind of results if the groove is too tight (smaller than the string diameter) or if the string is "buried" in the nut. : It seems you've already experimented with the rest of the setup, so I hope you'll find your answer in that little piece of ebony. Without seeing the construction of the instrument, neck angle, and size, it's difficult to go much further (concerning ideas and advice) in this kind of forum. Did one question: Had this instrument ever had a good sounding open A? If so, what was changed? : Best of luck! : Jeffrey Al and Jeffery, thnaks for the responses. Although I had failed to mention it, I did install and shape a new ebony nut prior to setting up the violin. I have double checked the grooves and they are correctly sloped down from the edge closest to the fingerboard. Also the strings do not lie deep or too tight in the the grooves. Since I had not played the violin before I set it up, I'm not sure that it has always had this problem. Joseph
  4. I have tried using medium and heavy tension on the A. Right now I have Pirastro Synoxa's (medium) on it, but I have also tried the Zyex in both medium and heavy tension, and Tonicas and dominants in medium. The heavy tension A did not improve the tone at all! Joseph
  5. I have a problem with this one violin that is driving me crazy trying to figure out. Overall, the violin sounds great, but for some reason the open "A" strings is very weak and thin sounding compared to any other notes. It almost sounds like a small harmonica where as the rest of the register sounds rich and bold. Even the other "A's" (octaves) are fine. I have tried cutting several different bridges of various blanks and cut differently. I have also fit several sound posts of different grain width and density. Of course the obvious such as correct set-up dimensions and post position have been messed with too. If any of you have any suggestions or solutions as to how I might be able to bring that particular note out of this violin, I would greatly appreciate any information. Regards, Joseph
  6. : Some time ago, there was a rumor that Pirastro would be phasing out production of Synoxa. Does anyone know anything about this? A while back I had heard this same rumor, so I e-mailed the folks at Pirastro and they assured me that they had no intentions to discontinue the regular Synoxas, but I'm not too sure about the Synoxa Plus. I have been using the regular Synoxas in medium guage for about 4 years and I find them to have a very big and well focused sound. They seem to have a shorter break in period than most other perlon core strings, are very stable, and last longer before becoming false. I play about 20 hours a week, and find that I have to change them about every 6-8 weeks. Joe
  7. : I was told when visiting a major strings instrument supplier : that the Kadenza company(KUN competitor) is run by the sons of the late Joseph : Kun, the man who created the KUN shoulder rest. This : particular supplier told me that the KUN people threatened : them if they sold the Kadenza shoulder rests. Apparently : the sons were taken to court : (or still in court ?!?) for stealing the design of the : shoulder rests! For anyone having any info on this or who wants to : rebute this topic, feel free to do so. Since the supplier : didn't want any conflict with KUN and had personally gotten : shoulder rest samples from Kadenza, I got a free Kadenza : shoulder rest in the process. My comments about the : shoulder rest: looks like a KUN, feels somewhat like a KUN, but : has better feet that attach to the violin in my opinion. I don't : have a clue though of how much they cost, although I would : assume a little less that the KUN. : Kenneth I bought a Kadenza shoulder rests a bout a year ago. Although the legs seemed a little more durable, and it hugged the edge of the violin better, the material used for the feet was too slick that it sort of slid around the edges of my violin not gripping firm enough. The cushion itself seems to be identical to the KUN as far as design, contour and size. At the time they were selling them for $41.00 which I believe is much more expensive than any model that KUN makes. I was lucky to know the owner of the shop and he gave me a discounted price, but I would not buy another one. I persoanlly use the Viva La Music. :-) Joe
  8. Yes, they are made of wood with a protective varnish of somesort. The feet will not scratch the violin and will last a long time. I had my first one for about 4 years before the rubber feet started to show any wear. I bought a new one with the cream color feet and it seems just as good. JOE
  9. : Hi Jacob: : Prices will vary all over the map, even at professional violin shops. I'll give you the Mid-West averages or ranges. Will be higher or lower in other parts of the country. : : Fingerboard Planed: $35 to $65 : : New Saddle: $40 to $80 : : New Nut: $35 to $45 : : New Pegs: $50 labor plus cost of pegs : : New Bridge: $40 to $60, student bridge : : New Post:$35 to $54 : : One unglued seam on the top (lower bout): $7 to $14 : Cheers, : Al Thanks Al,.. boy prices are more expensive than I figured but I guess it will be worth it to fix it up in playing condition. It is still cheaper than buying a new E.H. Roth. Regards, Jacob
  10. Hello, I have a very nice E. H. Roth violin that I would like to get repaired, but it needs many things done to it. I would just like to know what I might expect to get charged for each of the following services (ballpark figures) by a professional repairman. Fingerboard Planed New Saddle New Nut New Pegs New Bridge New Post One unglued seam on the top (lower bout) I am looking for a break down of each of these. Thanks! Jacob
  11. Hello Joe, This may sound real silly, but I use a hair color made by Mrs. Clairol (Nice-N-Easy) #110- Natural light Auburn. It was suggested to me by a friend of mine who has used it for many years with good results for coloring boxwood fittings. The color can be adjusted by the amount of time you leave the die on, or simply by repeating the process if you need a darker color. Normally I will leave it on for about 1/2 hour or so. Keep in mind that the color of boxwood does vary somewhat but the color achieved using this stuff is pretty close, or close enough for coloring the shaped peg shaft. I also burnish them after doing this. I do not know if using this hair color die will effect the density of the wood, but maybe we can get an answer on that from the real pros! (Al or Jeffrey). Joe S.
  12. : : Please someone tell me a good string name : : that has a bright brilliant sound. For violin. : : Remember, I'm looking for brightness and brilliance. : They don't make them much brighter than ropecore strings. Try Thomastik Spirocores or Pirastro Flexocor Permanents. However, these are steel core strings, which you may not like if you're the classical type (as opposed to the fiddler type). For bright synthetics, try Pirastro Synoxas. They are brilliant AND rich-sounding. : Victor I second the Pirastro Synoxa vote by Victor. They are slightly cheaper than dominants, are also synthetic, are very stable, and they produce a more rich and powerful tone than the Dominants. (In my opinion) Joe
  13. Hello, I have been cutting violin bridges for many years now and have always just left them "in the white", that is, I never apply shellac, oils, or any other substance to seal them after they have been cut and fit properly. My question is: Why is this sometimes done and what advantages/disadvantages are there to doing so? ... also what is the best thing to use? Regards, Joe
  14. : Does anyone have any information on the quality of the violins made by Gliga which someone is promoting on Ebay? Construction? Sound? Value? : Any information would be very much appreciated!! : Thanks, : tony Hello Tony, I have a Maestro model by Gliga that I bought about a month ago. I think it is a fabulous violin. The workmanship and wood selection are excellent, and the varnish is beautiful. The tone of the one I bought is slightly on the darker side, but still has plenty of volume and projection. It is the sound I prefer so I was very happy with it tonally. I have also seen the "Pro" model listed which is a step down from the "Maestro" and is a shop violin, but I could not tell you anything about them and how they differ from the Maestro. E-mail me if you need any more iformation. Joe
  15. A question for all th pros out there,.... what is the correct amount of overhang of the edge of the top/back from the rib? (for a violin) I have read that it should be 3mm except for the corners which are to be 2mm. However, I have them set to those exact measurements and it appears to be too much in comparison to many other fine violins I have. Could it be that this measurement is from the mold outline instead of the ouside of the rib?, which would infact make the final overhang 2mm all around and 1mm at the corners? Any comments would be appreciated. Joe
  16. : Does anybody know why rosins come in flimsy cardboard containers or wrapped in cloth? Do you know if using a metal, say aluminum, container would alter the quality of the resin? : This may seem like a strange question, but I'm a product design student (and a violinist) planning to design and create an aluminum rosin holder, which would hopefully be sturdier, neater, and reusable. : Thanks for your help! I always thought that the cloth was there to keep the excess rosin dust from getting all over your hand when applying the rosin to the bow. hum???? I don't know. Joe
  17. My vote goes to a polish maker by the name Wladek Stopka currently working in Chicago. Absolutley fine work and great sounding instruments. I have two violns made by him. Joe
  18. : At the risk of repeating myself, does anyone : know if Pirastro's Synoxa Plus Strings are still : available? They are supposed to be 'darker' than : Synoxas and have a pink tail winding instead of : striped white and pink. : Thanks for your help. Hello,... Johnson String Instruments list the Synoxa and the Synoxa Plus. The Plus list for $25.38 and thier phone number is 1-800-359-935. Hope this helps! Joe
  19. : Hi, I always feel tight on my E-string. It doesn't not resonate well. I am using Dominant Strings. Someone told me it is not good. Can any one recommend a better E-string? : Thank you in advace : JJ I personally use the Dogal "E" string. It is great! Plenty of volume, response, and does not shrill under your ear. Joe
  20. I would like to know what the correct distance from the peg collar to the peg box cheek should be when fitting a new set of pegs to a violin. I have been setting them at 11mm,... Is this correct? Joe
  21. Just wondering if any one can tell me where I can get a bridge stamp with my name on it ...? I have cut 100's of violin bridges and have always just left them blank on the front side but would like to start stamping them. Thanks, Joe
  22. I would like to know what type of varnish is best for touching up small dings and nicks. Maybe something thicker that is better for filling in, making it a little easier to level off. Any suggestions? Thanks, Joe
  23. I have come across a very nice violin bow by this maker and was wondering if any one knows any thing about him or the quality of his work. It is a very nice bow made with exceptionally nice pernambuco and the workmanship is excellent too. Not to mention that it plays like no other I have played on. It is a new bow and retails for $900.00. Any Information will be greatly appreciated. Joe
  24. I too have received a set of Obligato violin strings directly from Pirastro. I've had them on for about two weeks now. Let me say that I also believe that they are better than the Zyex. They have more tone, better response, are very stable, they are not as hard, and are overall a great string. I think one reason that some dealers aren't selling them through mail order is because they are a fairly new product and probably most dealers, like the one major one in my home town don't even know about their existence. I definately recommend trying them. Joe
  25. Hello, I recently purchased a violin with the label that reads "Georg Albert Fischer, Mittenwald Germany, anno 1971. Copy of Guarnerius made especially for Bennett Brothers Inc., Chicago, New York." I took it to a very reputable violin dealer and he told me that it was a "Roman Teller" violin. I must agree that at first glance I thought the same. I would just like to know what any of you experts out there might know about this violin. Is it infact a Roman Teller? and why is the label different? I was told by this dealer that they are approximately worth between $2500 and $3000. This one is in excellent condition, as if it had been stored since new. Oh,... also the bow that is with it is stamped "Albert Fischer" and is pernambuco with a silver lined frog, also like new. Thanks Joe
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