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Everything posted by Joseph

  1. The only one piece top violins I have come across in the shop were two different 1940s Wilkanowski violins. Although they looked rather odd, the sound was very deep and rich on the lower register. I don't know that the top had anything to do with that, but I imagine that since the widest grain was also on the bass side of these violins, it would be the way to go. Joseph
  2. Well, that depends on how wide the gap is that you are referring to. I once did the same thing so I made some purfling that was just a bit thicker, re cut one side of the channel (the bad side) and it still looked pretty good after I finished it. If it is minute maybe you can swell it, or if needed, inlay a tiny piece of matching spruce into the gap. However If it goes through any of the darker grain marks, be sure to match that up otherwise it will be quite noticeable. Joseph
  3. I use chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide or a combination of the two to clean out old cracks. After removing the top I glue a small temporary cleat at the end of the crack to prevent it from traveling further as I open it just enough to clean it out. I work in the cleaner to the crack with a soft bristle brush until it is no longer dark, then use water to rinse the cleaner before proceeding with the gluing and cleating. Others may have different methods, but this has proven effective for me. Joseph
  4. The top is removed for several reasons. First, if the crack needs to be cleaned and/or bleached prior to gluing, it is much easier to do if the top is removed and the crack can be spread apart just enough to work on. Then, to properly repair the crack itself, it must also be reinforced with tiny cleats on the inside in addition to gluing the crack. It is a bit more complicated than just gluing it and hoping that it holds. Making the crack "disappear" is also part of repairing it correctly. Joseph Santiago [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 01-02-2002).]
  5. Thanks for the replies .... The violin is not yet mine but has being offered to me. Although it is set up, It will need a new set up to my standards which is not a problem for me to do, but as far as the condition of the body goes, it is pretty mint. I make and repair violins, but I'm not really familiar with the Roth violins and the different models which were (are) made. I guess the asking wholesale price falls right into the category which Andrew mentioned. Thanks! Joseph [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 12-27-2001).]
  6. Hello, Just wondering if any of you could tell me about the quality and value of a 1923 Ernst Heinrich Roth Violin. It was made in 1923 and is a copy of a 1724 Strad - model VIII-R. It is in mint condition (no cracks or damage), has a two piece back, and it is branded and labeled inside. Any information would be helpful. Regards, Joseph
  7. Yes, I am very familiar with Wladek Stopka's instruments. In fact I own two of his violins (#270 and #185)! As far as I'm concerned, they are the two best violins I have. They sound excellent. He was making violins for a while here in Albuquerque New Mexico and I had the opportunity to meet him. I beleive he is now living in Chicago. He is not a very well known maker, but the quality of tone, and workmanship of his instruments are among the best I have seen and I am also a maker. Highly recommended! Joseph
  8. I have also been using the "Despiau" bridge blanks with great results. I agree with Michael, they are very easy to carve smooth and are less prone to chipping, yet I also think that they are a bit more stiff therefore allowing me to carve out more and plane it just a bit thinner. I also use the Aubert "Luxe" which in my opinion is just as good as the "De-Luxe" in every way. Joseph
  9. I do not claim to be even half the maker that Michael is .... but we have made a few custom left handed violins in our shop for $2500.00 - $3000.00. We have also converted a few older German violins with good results. Joseph
  10. I have had a few Jan Pawlikowski violins come through our shop in recent years. For the most part they are very beautiful instruments and nicely made, but I thought that all of them had a very bright tone. I am of course only commenting on the ones I have seen and played. I saw the one you won on Ebay listed several times and would be interested to hear how it sounds when you get it. Joseph
  11. Joseph

    Violin Display

    Taxus, I made my own racks to hang the violins in my shop. I used 1" X 2.5" pine wood and made square "U" shaped hangers out of heavy wire. The hangers measure 2" wide and hang 3" beneath the wood. They are placed about 7" apart and at a 45 degree angle. I then used 10" shelf "L" brackets to attach them to the wall. You can make these racks as long as you need them to accomodate the number of violins you want to display. You can see a close up photo of mine at: http://members.aol.com/jsanti7445/rack.jpg Regards, Joseph Santiago [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 08-22-2001).]
  12. Hello Ann, e-mail me at jsanti7445@aol.com. I may be able to help you get a guitarron and/or a vihuela. It so happens that my violin making partner (Jerry Starr) makes them and also comes across used ones from various other makers. Regards Joseph Santiago
  13. I personally use clamps (but not much pressure), but you can also use wedges. If you have a nice flat and level work bench, drill some dowels into it just slightly wider apart than your two wood halves put together, then cut yourself some small wedges and slightly tap them between the dowel pins and the edges of the wood you are clamping. It works very well and you can easily control the amount of force needed. Regardless of what method you use, the most important thing is that the two pieces fit together perfectly. Do not try to use clamping force to correct a poor fitting joint. If you already have a good joint, then it is not necessary to use clamps if you "rub" the two pieces together and use a good strong hide glue mix for this center joint. Joseph Santiago
  14. If you do not already have that little tube under your E string (over the bridge), try installing that. Sometimes this will filter out the higher piercing frequencies. Like others have already suggested, try a different type or brand of E string. I also feel that the wound strings are warmer, but do not have the response that the plain E has (just my opinion). If none of these options work, a very small (.25 mm - .5 mm) movement of the sound post towards the bass side may help. Joseph
  15. Taxus, try this site.http://www.pyrea.com/despiau/ Joseph [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 07-30-2001).]
  16. Hello D****l! (sorry) [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 07-28-2001).]
  17. Thanks Bob, actually I have been a Maestronet member since the days of the old board but I rarely post. I read when I get a chance but it's not that often. I had missed out on reading about this internet violin subject until now and would have liked to be a part of it Maybe on the next one. Joseph [This message has been edited by Joseph (edited 07-27-2001).]
  18. Pro-am, I know I have not been part of this internet violin project, but if you have a hard time cuting the bridge, or with any other part of the set-up I would be more than happy to help out. I can even provide (or install) the fittings unless it is going to be a special custom made set. Let me know. I would not recommend using anything thinner than a 6 mm diameter sound post. I also use about a 6.2 diameter post. I think this is a wonderful thing you all have done and I would like to take part in the 2nd internet violin if and when it happens. Regards, Joseph Santiago
  19. Cedar, I noticed this too. The photograph of the instrument was probably just enlarged to give it the appearance of a viola, but it is a violin that is pictured (notice the Violin Dominant strings). Flame pattern in wood is as unique as human characteristics. No two instruments are exactly identical as far as having the same flame pattern, but I have seen some which are very similar. Joseph
  20. quote: WHO exactly is the "mother of pearl?" [/b] "Pearl" should know, .... Oh, but wait, who exactly is Pearl?
  21. I use a soundpost setter that I made myself about 12 years ago out of high speed steel. It is basically the same as the French model in design, but thinner. I also covered the stem with shrink tubing to protect the varnish and F hole edges should a slip occur. I now find that using a post setter other than my own is more of a chellenge to work with. Most of the tools I use in my shop, I have modified to work best for me. Joseph
  22. I prefer to use Hill Style Pegs because they are more comfortable to grip when tuning. They also look nice and do not have to large of a head. I like either ebony or rosewood with white collars and pins. My second choice would be the heart style pegs again with white pins and collars. The Hill style tailpiece not only looks the best but seems to be preferred my many players. I of course match the fret color with the pegs I decide to use on a particular violin. I agree with Barry that the plain end button is better than one with a pin at the end for comfort reasons, but I will still use the matching end button if the pegs and tailpiece have different colored pins/frets/collars. Regards, Joseph Santiago
  23. Guarneri del Gesu ... 1720s ??????? Shot in the dark becuase the photo appears a little out of focus on my monitor so I canot see the detail of the purfling or the corners. Joseph
  24. Dunvegan, I have replaced many fingerboards on violins and there is quite a bit more to fitting one correctly than the average player might realize, however, I would have to agree with Mark_W as far as the approximate cost of having one replaced in my area. I charge anywhere from $180.00 to $250.00 to replace a fingerboard (with nut) depending on the particular instrument and the quality of the fingerboard blank I use. Of course I do not have a large shop where I have a great deal of overhead because I do this work out of my shop at home. I recommend that you first do your homework and shop around. You will be surprised how many different quotes you will get from various luthiers/repair shops. Joseph
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