Joseph
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Posts posted by Joseph
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Wow, I stop visiting the site for a few weeks and look at the changes that occur while I was away. I'm not too sure I like it yet, but time will tell.
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Yeah, I see it in your post.
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Not true, although I agree that neither on is probably not very similar to the original Strads or Guarneris, there are differences between the outline of the two models in the Gliga line. The Gliga Guarneri is really large especially in the width of the instrument compared to the Strad which is more normal (in dimension). Overall I think the Guarneri model is quite bulky and less comfortable to play with no benefit in tone quality. Both models usually have clubby necks anyway, but If I were going to recommend one I would choose the Strad model.
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Thanks Michael ... I just checked mine and it is 1.4mm so I guess it's close enough.
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Michael, Ah yes, but I never make them too snug. I only use the string as a gauge to determine what size hole to use with a little lee way. Normally I just use one size too, thick enough to accept a Tonica aluminum "D" string which are normally very thick. What size drill bit do you recommend for violin pegs?
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Yes, but It's not always actual wear that allows the peg to travel inward but rather different reactions to humidity between the peg wood and that of the peg box wall. Even if you compress as much as possible that will not eliminate peg travel 100% and it will happen to virtually ever newly fit peg at least a little (I normally allow from .5 mm to 1 mm for this when cutting and rounding off the ends, and drilling the holes). At least that is what I have found to be true here in our NM climate.
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Regis,
Well, depending on the instrument, but normally I make all the holes the same size and usually gauge it by the threaded end of the thickest string, but on higher end violins I have been known to gauge each hole differently for a more snug fit (or at least two sizes). And yes I always do chamfer the holes slightly with a small rat-tail file.
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I agree ... I like the "E" peg head vertical for extra left hand space and all the others slightly tipped away from horizontal while in playing position. Comfort is very important to me as a player and I find that once I point this out to my customers they totally agree and wondered why they never thought of doing it.
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I drill the hole in each peg slightly towards the peg head (from center of peg box) to allow for some settling inward. I'd rather cut the string length if too long than wind a crossover. I wind them straight and I have never had any slip off the peg shaft without a crossover. Usually 3 or 4 wraps around the shaft and inserted well into the right size hole will not allow to the string to slip off the shaft anyway. On some violins with a shallow peg box bottom the cross over just interferes anyway. I also drill the hole in the shaft perpendicular to the peg head to allow for easier alignment and initial turning while stringing up.
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I'm 100% right handed. The only things I do with my left hand are those things that require both hands to do, usually holding things while the right hand does all the critical work.
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Well, they are handy when having to lug around many instruments for shows and conferences. The violins are staggered so that they do not interfere with each other and are usually protected by a thick blanket or panel between the top and bottom halves, but I imagine that like anything the better quality cases protect better than just any ol' cheap one. I have a few of these and they come in very handy in the right situation.
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You are correct, I also could not see much of a difference in the catalog photos which is why I ended up ordering the French one. I thought it was very similar to the Herdim expect for the extreme price difference. Although the French one works well, I find it a bit heavy and bulky, workmanship is not that great on it either. I would guess that the price you pay is for the brand name, but without actually comparing them side by side it's difficult to say for sure.
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Oh yeah, I guess you're correct. I purchased it from Howard Core but it is a little different on the head end from what is shown in the catalog. The one I made works just as well.
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These are the two I use the most. The top one is one that I made about 15 years ago out of a scrap piece of wrought iron metal and the bottom one is the Herdim English style post setter. Both work great for me.
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Judging from those terrible photos, it doesn't look "right" to my eye and I have seen many Coda bows (older and newer ones) in my shop. It looks similar to the carbon composite bows that Decor sells for much less.
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Don't quote me on this since I'm no financial expert, but I would imagine so ... especially because there is also a bank routing number, personal address and phone number that would just facilitate the hacker's process of withdrawing the money. My business modo is: "Better safe than sorry."
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Quote:Can anyone withdraw money from your account with just an account number?
According to my bank ... yes, it is possible by a hacker. I had to close an account after giving my information to someone overseas. After winning one of my auctions and getting my information to supposedly wire me the money, his e-mail no longer worked, he was no longer a registered ebay user, and of course never paid for the violin, so I was advised by the bank to close the account immediately and open a new one which I did for security purposes. I'll never give my bank information out to anyone that I don't know personally and will only accept wire transfers via Western Union especially from out of the country. In my case there was no loss, but some aren't so lucky nor aware of the consequences.
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Excitement it does create ... But the only issue with that type of listing is that you may not always get back what you have invested in the item to begin with and are then obligated to sell the item for the highest bid price even if you loose on it, and that is a risk I do not like!
I feel that if you start the bidding at what you need to get for it with no reserve, you eliminate some fees, unserious buyers, shill bidding games, reserve amount guessing and are still able to protect your investment all at once. Although, it's not really an auction then is it ... I like to think of it as more of an advertisement!
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Glenn, No there is no difference in the amount of the listing fees in that scenario, but your final value fee (if the auction is succesful with bids) then will be based on a % of the sale price.
Now in comparison, if you list the starting bid at $1.00 and put a reserve of $20,000.00, then your listing fees will be about $104.00, plus you would then have to pay the final value fees if the reserve was met and the item sells. Just another reason I do not use reserve auctions.
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No that's not how it works, the final value fees are based on the price at which the item actually sells for regardless if there is a reserve on the item or not. Apart from the original listing fees, the fee you pay for selling an item through ebay is based on the final sale price only. If the reserve is not met there are no fees due (except listing fees) even if there were bids below the reserve amount.
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Many sellers choose to use reserve auctions because of the bidding action that occurs thinking that if others see lots of bids on their item, that there is something special about the item, but the reserve still protects them from having to sell the violin for too little if the bidding does not exceed the reserve amount. That's about the only benefit I can see for a seller to use it. I start many of my auctions for my "reserve" price and often with a "buy it now" option slightly above that, or sometimes I just list it in store format and let only people who are looking in that particular price range decide if they want it. These methods do not create a lot of bidding action but it also eliminates having to play the bidding and guessing game for many.
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Seth, I guess one could try it but I should have been more clear on what my results were. I was actually referring to the evenness of the color as well as the texture combined. A sprayed finish looks to uniform in color and does not have the slight variances that one gets from brushing (dimension of color not surface texture). So, I don't think that it is possible to get the same effect by doing what you suggested, but again I have only experimented with it very little. Some of the experts here may be able to achieve this, but I didn't.
But ... I know one guy at a very reputable violin shop who varnishes violins in complete with an airbrush and spirit varnish. He is quite amazing and gets outstanding results. He can also crank them out and do a complete violin in a day. He only does his antiqued models like this, but they are quite outstanding when he's done. They have surface texture and beautiful color shadings, not at all like a factory sprayed finish. He can even copy a particular violin from a poster with very realistic results. He is the reason I tried my hand at it but quickly found it was not my cup of tea.
Joe
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I totally agree with you Claudio. In fact, that was the reason I never continued using it after trying a few times. A buddy of mine told me "It looks cheap" and that was enough for me to stop messing with it apart from my own thoughts about it. Brushing allows for more control and better texture without a doubt! ... but the point of my post was to state that it was not impossible to accomplish.
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"The problem is that we can't use an airbrush with oil varnish. Since I only use oil varnish..."
I have also varnished a violin with oil varnish and an airbrush with decent results, although I agree that brushing is better and is what I normally do anyway, but it can definitely be done and is not impossible. In fact, I had more trouble spraying spirit varnish than I did with oil because I found that the tip would get clogged and cause an uneven spray more frequently. For the oil varnish, I thinned it with turpentine a little more than I would have for brushing and it flowed out nicely.
Pick the odd one out.....
in The Pegbox
Posted
I'll go with the 2nd one from the left.