Joseph

I'll go with the 2nd one from the left.

Wow, I stop visiting the site for a few weeks and look at the changes that occur while I was away. I'm not too sure I like it yet, but time will tell.

Yeah, I see it in your post.

Not true, although I agree that neither on is probably not very similar to the original Strads or Guarneris, there are differences between the outline of the two models in the Gliga line. The Gliga Guarneri is really large especially in the width of the instrument compared to the Strad which is more normal (in dimension). Overall I think the Guarneri model is quite bulky and less comfortable to play with no benefit in tone quality. Both models usually have clubby necks anyway, but If I were going to recommend one I would choose the Strad model.

Thanks Michael ... I just checked mine and it is 1.4mm so I guess it's close enough.

Michael, Ah yes, but I never make them too snug. I only use the string as a gauge to determine what size hole to use with a little lee way. Normally I just use one size too, thick enough to accept a Tonica aluminum "D" string which are normally very thick. What size drill bit do you recommend for violin pegs?

Yes, but It's not always actual wear that allows the peg to travel inward but rather different reactions to humidity between the peg wood and that of the peg box wall. Even if you compress as much as possible that will not eliminate peg travel 100% and it will happen to virtually ever newly fit peg at least a little (I normally allow from .5 mm to 1 mm for this when cutting and rounding off the ends, and drilling the holes). At least that is what I have found to be true here in our NM climate.

Regis, Well, depending on the instrument, but normally I make all the holes the same size and usually gauge it by the threaded end of the thickest string, but on higher end violins I have been known to gauge each hole differently for a more snug fit (or at least two sizes). And yes I always do chamfer the holes slightly with a small rat-tail file.

I agree ... I like the "E" peg head vertical for extra left hand space and all the others slightly tipped away from horizontal while in playing position. Comfort is very important to me as a player and I find that once I point this out to my customers they totally agree and wondered why they never thought of doing it.

I drill the hole in each peg slightly towards the peg head (from center of peg box) to allow for some settling inward. I'd rather cut the string length if too long than wind a crossover. I wind them straight and I have never had any slip off the peg shaft without a crossover. Usually 3 or 4 wraps around the shaft and inserted well into the right size hole will not allow to the string to slip off the shaft anyway. On some violins with a shallow peg box bottom the cross over just interferes anyway. I also drill the hole in the shaft perpendicular to the peg head to allow for easier alignment and initial turning while stringing up.

I'm 100% right handed. The only things I do with my left hand are those things that require both hands to do, usually holding things while the right hand does all the critical work.

Well, they are handy when having to lug around many instruments for shows and conferences. The violins are staggered so that they do not interfere with each other and are usually protected by a thick blanket or panel between the top and bottom halves, but I imagine that like anything the better quality cases protect better than just any ol' cheap one. I have a few of these and they come in very handy in the right situation.

You are correct, I also could not see much of a difference in the catalog photos which is why I ended up ordering the French one. I thought it was very similar to the Herdim expect for the extreme price difference. Although the French one works well, I find it a bit heavy and bulky, workmanship is not that great on it either. I would guess that the price you pay is for the brand name, but without actually comparing them side by side it's difficult to say for sure.

Oh yeah, I guess you're correct. I purchased it from Howard Core but it is a little different on the head end from what is shown in the catalog. The one I made works just as well.

These are the two I use the most. The top one is one that I made about 15 years ago out of a scrap piece of wrought iron metal and the bottom one is the Herdim English style post setter. Both work great for me.