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  2. C-Bout Repair?

    Can anyone identify the purpose behind the 3 circles on the treble-side c-bout? https://www.ebay.com/itm/VENICE-IN-THE-HOUSE-300-years-old-ITALIAN-4-4-violin-violon-geige-P-GUARNERIUE/302547778434?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49564%26meid%3Dd807b11bc38d440ea904036a0f1f7bc4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172355332898&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 And don't worry... I do not intend on purchasing
  3. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    The bigger the better. I use a number 7, but I've owned it since before I started making instruments. Just put each half in the vice then use the Mk1 eyeball. It takes a long time at first but it's a great way of developing tool/eye skills.
  4. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    I have a No. 8 for sale, pretty cheap, but it only makes sense if you are close to me because the shipping cost would be large. Laurinburg, NC
  5. Today
  6. What would you charge to repair this violin top?

    Thanks for the observation. Good point on the saddle. Yes it is quite tight. Yes I agree with you one the also on the crack repair. I had no illusion of getting the edges to line up doing any form of external repair. I was more just interested in stabilizing the cracks. But You're probably right and I'll just leave them to the next owner. Since the shop just wants to sell it "as is". I think the bass bar crack has already been fix once but it has grown since then. I'll pass along the info on the auction sites and discuss with him the issue of selling a violin that needs repair. Thanks again for your input. Cheers, Joe
  7. Turner violin Mittenwald imported

    These type of pegs I see on a lot of old English violins. Sometimes have have mother of pearl inlays. I don't know what kind of wood they are made from.
  8. Bow repair question.

    Unfortunate I don't have a lathe to make my own tool. On my wish list. That and with access to a milling machine, I could make almost anything. The bow owner was fine with the extent of the repairs - minus the support ring. There should be no stress on the crack unless the bow is dropped again. Which is probably how it broke in the first place... The crack was pretty safe to begin with and the bow still quite strong, as it took a bit of pressure to separate the seam enough to get the glue permeating the crack. I suggested, if he wanted the bushing installed, to take it to a bow repair shop. Once glued (with cyanocrylate) and wrapped with string to clamp, the crack is almost invisible. The eyelet repair also went very well. Did a test drill on a piece of ebony with 7/64" drill bit and could firmly screw in the new eyelet. So enlarging the eyelet hole by 0.2 mm was really simple. I only had to then narrow the eyelet "box" by 0.15 mm clean out the channel slightly for a nice slip fit. All that is left now is to rehair the bow. Thanks for the help! Joe
  9. Baroque solid ebony fingerboard?

    Hi Ben, Sorry about the late reply. The board is not very long which would fit into the Amati period but I have no way to determine if it is original to the instrument. There is a manuscript repair label from Jacob Steininger in Mainz dated 1795 which overlaps the original Brothers Amati label. The instrument has been around and outside of Italy. You might want to query John Dilworth who did some work on the viola. The neck appears to have been removed at one time and a small wedge inserted between the end of the neck root and the rib, likely to raise the projection height. The neck block is in two pieces, as one finds when a part of the neck block is split away to pull the nails and remove the neck. The missing block wood is replaced and the neck re-nailed to finish the operation. The same type of operation was done to 'il Cannone' when the neck was modified at the heel to increase length. Bruce
  10. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    I certainly had trouble with my first attempts. I developed an unhealthy interest in old planes and other tools. One that I bought, an Oz clone of a Stanley 6, is brilliant for centre joints. I hold the two halves in a vice and a few passes gives me a really great joint. Of course, as said above, the blade needs to be bloody sharp. I think the lesson is a well set up plane with a very sharp blade. You do not need to spend a squillion dollars on the plane - unless you really want to and SWMBO/HWMBO doesn't find out. Good luck. Tim
  11. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    I use a combination of a Stanley #5, then a Lie Nielsen #102.
  12. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    ...and make sure that the side of the plane makes a perfectly right angle with the sole of the plane.
  13. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    Your plane needs to be razor sharp and set to take wispy shavings, like 1/1000" or thereabouts. And I think it's best to "shoot" the joints, i.e., with the plane laid on its side on your flat bench. The plane you already have should be up to the task.
  14. What would you charge to repair this violin top?

    From the photo it looks as though a tight saddle may be the cause of at least the first bassbar crack if not the one beside it. Make sure the saddle has some space on both sides. Most shops that I have been around refuse to do crack repairs from the outside as a general rule. For one thing your chances of perfect alignment are much lower without the top off, but you may also have glue penetration issues and the lack of internal reinforcement is an issue. With a bass bar crack in particular you're essentially selling something that you know is going to fail, and that's not a great position for any retailer. It's also a reason that shops refuse to do repairs like that. When that violin comes in to a shop to be repaired and the luthier says, since none of these cracks were properly repaired I would consider them to be a liability. If one of those cracks reopens (which they will) the customer will get the bad news that all the cracks should be reworked because of the likely issues of poor alignment and lack of reinforcement. You don't want to be the guy they're talking about when the customer gets the news that their problems are the result of inadequate repair. That's my view on the matter anyways. As local shops start to see that kind of work it also builds a reputation within the business which will not be favorable for you. If he wants to sell an instrument that is not properly repaired tell him to send it to one of the repairable auctions at Skinner or Tarisio. Plenty of people will pay something for it so they have a project to take to a workshop or something, and he won't have to put money into repairing it first. Also avoids the risk of a ticked off customer when they get the news that the cracks weren't properly repaired before they bought it from a retailer.
  15. Minimum length of unworked ribs

    I like to leave them about an inch longer than they'll finish. I give the c bouts a tap with a hammer, and the others a tug with a pinchers while the glue is still running, to seat them on yhe form. Start with the longest you can get, and don't cut it off until the rib is bent. That way, if you crack one, you dont waste the whole length, just move down a bit and start again.
  16. What would you charge to repair this violin top?

    Caveat emptor, I guess! Good luck with it!
  17. plate tuning specs ?

    Ooh so that's what that thing was for! Learning something new every day!
  18. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    IMHO you can make any size plane work. In other words the plane is not the be all/end all to a good joint. I use a Veritas #5. I used a block plane on the one and only cello that I"ve made.
  19. W.E. Hill bow??? And a restoration and value Question.

    Douwe, To my eye this looks lime a very ordinary nickel mounted bow. Really, better pictures might tell more. Someone has had a Hill brand made up, and is making a couple of hundred euros for three minutes work and a sniff of camping gas.
  20. Yeoman's mark is supposed to be a single nick inthe lower mortice. http://www.ebay.com/gds/Guide-to-GENUINE-bows-by-W-E-Hill-and-Sons-/10000000177894333/g.html http://www.hillbows.com/sydney-yeoman https://tarisio.com/cozio-archive/browse-the-archive/makers/maker/?Maker_ID=1719 You probably have all this, but maybe it helps. DLB
  21. Minimum length of unworked ribs

    Maybe 5-10mm more than the final length. If it's a model I've never made, I will use a piece of string wrapped around the blocks and form to approximate how long my final length needs to be. I add maybe 10mm to account for trimming/fitting and/or the length of the rib miter. It really depends on your skill level as well. I mean if you were really good you could make two millimeters over the final work. I'm not really good.
  22. Minimum size plane for making centre joints

    Have you tried chalk?
  23. 100 Year Old Violin Pegs

    http://www.dov-music.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3612 ??? maybe, click pegs....maybe you'll see something else you like?
  24. 100 Year Old Violin Pegs

    I have an old Stainer violin copy from the early 1900s and it needs new pegs. I am trying to find pegs that are similar to what it was originally built with, but the original pegs are much wider than anything I can find. The pegs measure 24 mm in width. Pegs I have purchased are 22 mm. There is a notable difference when viewed side by side. Is this typical of pegs made in that era or do you think maybe they are viola pegs? Does anyone know where I can find pegs this wide?
  25. Yesterday
  26. Perry Sultana...

    Sorry no neckset yet...this fall has been busier than I expected but I have been at it here and there when time permits.
  27. mini lathe recommendation for making buttons

    HSS 1/4" x 2 1/2" right hand facing tool
  28. Tool marks

    + 1. Really beautiful work Christian.
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