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  2. Then maybe we could call it a "mullet" joint?
  3. Ok thanks, I will repair it myself then:)
  4. Widely available, maybe. But your pictures were a huge improvement from the thumbnails on Tarisio. Thank you for them! Maybe there was no attempt to actually copy anything, but if scammers thought it mattered they probably would. Why not? They're going to do whatever works, including ratchet up their game a bit to capitalize on people's hopes and /or greed if they must. I feel like back in 2006 when I first started paying any attention to violins (so long ago), faking and scamming wasn't even as sophisticated as it is now. There was often nitrocellulose involved. Information probably helps "everyone". I'm not at all arguing any point, just thinking back to a simpler time, when cheap violins were cheap violins. Sigh. I was too impressed with the black and white photos. I have no idea if the fraudsters were close with the letterhead, address, or any of that stuff (guess is definitely not), but it looked like old photos, an old font, decent pictures. Better than Borat over there holding it by the neck and taking pictures with the flash on at slightly skewed angles. While I can't understand anyone making the purchase, I feel for anyone who did. That's lousy. But there are also many modern Luthiers in China and everywhere doing really brilliant work and charging fair prices. Find one, buy from them.
  5. My question is what is the price? Is he selling it at a price that reflects the cert? Or is the price in line with a tarted up Markie? Sometimes people feel the need to make trade instrument more interesting just to move it off at trade instrument prices (or a just a bit higher). In which case, if you really like the playing qualities of the instrument, just buy it and chuck the paperwork.
  6. I haven't come across livingstone however there is a reason they are painted black besides being easier to manufacturer. It'll either be ply or very low quality wood. Similar violins usually have atrocious setups including glued in sound posts and incorrect string spacing and bridge height making them unplayable. Cleaned up with an adjusted setup they can work and are functional. I would suggest looking at your local classifieds, kjiji, craigslist etc., if you can wait a few weeks usually you can pick up a better student grade for the same price or less. You'll probably be better off getting something with a decent setup though. Either check with a ruler before you buy or factor in set up costs.
  7. It's not clear to me how big this piece is, and whether the backs are 1-pc or 2-pc. A ruler in the photo might help.
  8. Im confusing myself here Not sure what i said reads properly. I meant its always too big when i calculate it. So have to remove more .
  9. Today
  10. Most set an angle in the butt joint, in the 85° neighborhood, then did the rest with the wedged board at the end.
  11. Cellists use steel core strings anyway and don't even know it. I didn't know this either until a well known maker pointed this out. Now every time I listen to a famous cellist I can hear it and don't like the sound. But still I'm grateful that my ignorance was revealed to me.
  12. Gawd.... Call the joint what you like. For me, the standard neck joint has slightly flared sides at the heel, fits the definition of a sliding dovetail even without shoulders, and is designed to be relatively easily separated as needed (the angle is shallow). As they say, looks like a duck (or dove), walks like a duck, quacks like a duck.... must be a.... so I'll call it a dovetail. Whatever you want to call it, at least do it right when cutting one. I'm going back to work.
  13. There was an old Weisshaar shop adage, "I cut and cut and it's still too small".
  14. For practical purposes yes, but in reality no idea. When i want a button of the exact diameter i use the drill rods , i bend the metal around one and use a very thin file in the join until its a very tight fit. I then take a tiny bit more off with the file. I then bind it with iron wire ,solder it and then gently hammer it back onto the drill rod to get the exact fit. I always end up cutting a little more off the silver strip than i calculated , dont know why but its never too short alway a little long.
  15. In fact, if it was the case you describe, than wouldn't this would be the more effective design, an older baroque bridge?
  16. In that case you dont have any choice other than make them to fit the button.
  17. So Martin What is the instrument - a late Markie? Not Chinese!
  18. I understand that the metal outside the neutral axis stretches and the metal inside compresses. But does the neutral axis always fall in the center of the material?
  19. If there was insurance on the transport I would claim insurance money and then buy with its another fiddle.
  20. So the image you presented is just your speculation of how a bridge vibrates? I don't see the bridge as funnel shaped at all, or any aspect of it either. The "heart" is the consequence of the aesthetic sensibilities of the time, not some kind of vibration-directing device.
  21. Assuming the dimensions you obtain (width and thickness) are correct for your purposes (violins, viola) Otherwise, there could be a compromise to be done on the inclinations of the lines AA, BB and CC to obtain the widths (AA & CC) and the thicknesses (blue lines) you need, adding some tolerance margins according to the tool you intend to use. Good luck! Sug
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