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How would you know from these pictures alone? IMHO, this depends on factors that are not in the images.

Fortunately very easy to make with the most rudimentary metalworking skills...

I'm not clearly seeing what point you are making. A serious and irreversible alteration can be a devaluation, an improvement/adjustment or something what can be judged differently by different persons or future generations. No matter what's the case, it could be something what owners or buyers could have an interest to know about.

No wonder you made your own. Holy moly, the cost of this thing!

^What crack? The stuff you're smoking?

Just slide the ring out of the way and put a small amount of super glue where the ring will be. Then seat the ring. That ought to take care of it.

I get plenty of people thinking the sound is the only thing to worry about when deciding what to fix. Violin just fell off the chair, large crack, still sounds the same, why repair? Guess that's still the same as forty years ago.

One of my teachers' main violin had a bridge that was bent forward at the waist I would estimate 20 degrees. It and he both sounded phenomenal. Sometimes in orchestra he'd switch to some other instrument and some other multi-instrumentalist would use his violin in the violin section, and I remember it got compliments and I can't remember anybody even mentioning the bridge. But the internet saying run immediately to your nearest luthier was forty years in the future

Bridge looks good. If you keep the string grooves lubricated and keep it straight you'll get another 100 years out of it. The varnish chips could do with a dab of shellac. Five minute job. Looks like the tailgut could be shortened.

mine is a DIY version of this Gewa one: https://tatsunoyaonline.shop-pro.jp/?pid=152217897 made from square section steel tube and a couple of knife blades.

Re bridge perpendicularity. Conceptually I follow the downward force of the strings with the bridge, resulting in the bridge leaning backwards slightly.

Lining the ribs with linnen can maybe improve it somewhat. If you want to keep original sound as much as possible

Me too. If a bridge is working well acoustically, I try to delay the replacement as long as possible. Naturally, this does not apply in cases of severe bending.

Cool! You don't worry about heat/moisture weakening the wood? I've always taken the (very conservative, since I'm inexperienced) approach that it was an unacceptable risk.

Got an unusual problem. Nice Marconcini violin, great sound, terrible wolf on the b's, on all of the strings. It's been an intermittent problem on this instrument forever. The afterlength was short. The neck angle (projection) was a bit low (I didn't note the exact measurement, unfortunately). The saddle is very high and curved toward the scroll (shortening the distance from saddle-to-bridge and lowering the break angle). The tailpiece was too long. The board was thin--less than 3.5mm. I did a pretty major overhaul last year. I bent the neck back a la @David Burgess and corrected the projection with a new fingerboard. It worked well for a while. Now, the wolves are barking louder than ever. The board is secure. The saddle has shifted a little and I never corrected the height. The top plate right by the bass foot of the bridge sounds a b when I use the glass rod on it. I lengthened the afterlength from 48 to 54.5. This made it worse. I've "solved" the problem for now with lead golf tape under the board, but I'm hoping for a more elegant and resonant solution. One hates to dampen any more than is necessary... Any ideas? Will lowering that saddle help? The resonant frequency of the board is a 4th or 5th away from the wolf pitch. That shouldn't be an issue, should it?

Thankyou! When i open the cabinet in the dark my whole room looks like an aquarium. It was long due to upgrade the cabinet and ill be adding additional tubes so ill have a mix of both uv-a and b

This overt German heritage not withstanding, much of the Venetian school thuroughly absorbed and used the same fundamental methods as Cremona. This despite their somewhat independent choices and aims using those methods. That includes goffriller, Seraphino, and Montagnana.

Beautiful. Baroque meets Blade Runner.

Hmmm. I also notice this week that Tarisio is dropping the free, unrestricted access to instrument/bow photos from past sales. Apparently you can still register to see a reference example and the others from past sales, but come mid November you will have to pay. So, along with the new auction format, this all sounds to me like a new approach and not a good one. Speaking not as someone not in the violin trade, markets generally work best when everyone has access to the same information. Speaking as a buyer, depriving bidders of the auction house's assessment of market value and also raising bidders' cost for information on previous auctions showing what items may be expected to look like can only work to the benefit of bidders already in the trade. As a seller, I would like to have some better idea of likely results than just one starting price. That is, these changes would seem to benefit the auction house and the professional trades -- and against folks not in the trade. IMHO

I was able to take it apart with minimal damage... Now I'm going to scrape at the bowl to t take some weight away. (And also thin out the arching on the back, I think it is too heavy as well.)

I‘ll do my very best, thanks.

Super glue it is. Be tidy.

Seems like a tentative to push auction prices even higher. At the detriment of the musical community they are supposed to serve. Hopefully competiton won’t follow…

The only other type I've seen is like this one on International Violin's website. Although it looks a bit bulky to hold, not sure how one could hold it like a pen. Is there a different one that you use?

Hey there, I got a violin that I bought back in 2002, where I have some decent Otto Tempel fittings on (minus the tail piece that I die replace with an Ergo Vio one). However, on one of the pegs, the ebony ring keeps getting loose, although it does fit very well with friction. What is the usual way to go? I did glue it with some tiny amount of hide glue a couple of years back, but now it came loose again. I am actually rather close to just using a drop of superglue.