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I retire from my "day job" the end of next month..... already know that the first month or so of retirement will be spent cleaning my shop.
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Nice I feel much better LOL
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That's as tidy as my workshop can get.
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I know no Excuse! but only about had a day a week lately with work at the Real job taking my time. so no more work until you clean your shop!! I tried to hire my grandson as a apprentice but he turn it down ...
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Whatever was done it looks remarkably "sterile".
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Progress on the violin..
- Yesterday
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Oh no! Nothing like that! Only lemonade, lawn bowling and an occasional outbreak of fisticuffs.
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Sounds like it
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I like Wittner finetune pegs. Much more precise tuning (8:1 gear ratio instead of 4:1), and they are installed the same way as traditional pegs - no glue necessary! The violist in my quartet had them installed on both her instruments.
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If I recall correctly, urethane glue was recommended for installation. Not water soluble. And, if they were installed properly, the bass side will unscrew normally, but the trebel side is left-hand thread. I've never tried to remove any.
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Considering what Mat said, you were close, anyway.
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Only in Quebec, and in Quebec every one hates everyone even themselves - I lived there for a couple decades one year...
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I'm not sure I have a desire to be a tourist in Canada. What would I do for fun? Do you guys have beer, seedy bars, or televised hockey games up there? Even TVs?
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Absolutely agree with you - the hardest part for me is to slow down, plan, practice, rethink, practice and then carefully implement... when I do, things turn out so much better than when I don't.
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I would like to remove a set of Pegheads from a cello I have and install them in a new cello that I'm buying. Since there's not a qualified luthier locally to do this, I would like to do it myself if possible. Does anyone have an installation manual he/she could post? I'm assuming the glue used to install them is water soluble, so that they will become loosened if the area where they contact the pegbox is moistened. Of course, I realize that the size of the Peghead shafts must agree closely with those of the new cello I'm getting. Thank you.
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Eric i think that`s just gunge on the handle next to the button.
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Thanks Davide, excellent video's all of them super clear, and relaxing to watch. hardest part to me is patients, and holding your horses back!! Like someone posted before your videos teach the reward of slowing down and giving it your best.
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Note to self: create folk art table for Burgess... Romberg Flat: At the very least, Jimmy and I have the fun of the hunt in common!
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Or you could draw out some artsy design on the top, then stamp the design into the metal with a hammer and screwdriver, and sell it as Canadian folk art to a gullible tourist from the US.
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Buying things for peanuts ... trifle Fun while exploring them ... priceless Throwing them away ... who cares Ergo, Jimmy Stanić is a wise witty man, and excellent jazz singer (also and a good double bass player) BTW, I'm sure that you will find the best way to use your tables
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I don't know if he is wise or not! Buying it...then throwing it away...seems like a bit of a waste of $$$. I thought that if we don't use these tables for the tortoise...we can always used them in the workshop or garage, or elsewhere. Tables seem to be useful things...
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I think that is because the head has been polished to death. Notice the grain in front of the button where the finish has been worn off.
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Thanks Very sharp tools are the basis of the work because they allow for greater control of the cut with the possibility to remove very little wood at a time where this is needed. With poorly sharpened tools some tasks are simply impossible.....Cutting edge shape is also important, even though here it becomes more a matter of personal preference and habits. I do not have a video on sharpening but I don't think that a video may help to understand how to get a perfectly sharp tool, practising is really the only way to get there. You may find a lot on sharpening on internet that is not much far from what I do, sharpening is not a peculiarity of violin making and there are many different way and materials to get a sharp cutting edge. For what is worth usually I prefer using japanese waterstones grit 800/1200 straight after the grinding wheel and grit 4000 for final sharpening (the real sharpening) followed by some passes on leather strap loaded with aluminium oxide paste. I use the grinding wheel very sparingly and sometimes I don't use it at all using instead a very coarse Japanese waterstone grit 220. But I don't have a Tormek, if it were so I would probably use it more often than my cheap and inadequate grinding wheel, and in this detail it would be better not to emulate me... I also don't have diamond stone that work amazingly well for coarse shaping and I do not have explored many others things that may work just as well and maybe even better in terms of time spent sharpening.
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One our very popular singer (now 88 years young), particularly well known for his special sense for humor and extraordinary interpretation of American evergreen songs and jazz, but also for collecting worthless stuff, once when asked about his collecting passion, answered this, in slowly way with his specific nasal voice: "You see, when I buy a strange thing on flee market, I bring it home, constantly look at it every day before sleeping and think what it might serve. Then, when I finally realize that it serves no purpose, I just throw it away!" But it was long time ago, before internet forums...
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Oh! Never thought of that! We have a vet college here! Maybe they finally remodelled! Thank you!
